Easter Island: the future's not set in stone

Michelle Jana Chan : I wondered if the pilot sighed with relief as the wedge of land emerged on the horizon. There is only deep Pacific Ocean blue between Santiago, the capital of Chile, and Easter Island, and, after five hours in the air, the cones of three extinct volcanoes rising from the sea are as welcome as they are dramatic. They must have been even more of a surprise for the 18th-century European explorers who stumbled across this craggy outcrop, especially when, on closer inspection, the adventurers spied the forbidding backs of giant stone statues standing sentinel along the coastline. Captain Cook wrote in his journal in March, 1774: "This is the farthest we have come." The real miracle is that the first settlers, the Rapa Nui, believed to have arrived from other Polynesian islands around 400AD - and from whom the island takes its indigenous name - ever made it to these rocky shores. The nearest inhabited land is Pitcairn, nearly 1,250 miles to the west. In the other direction, at almost twice the distance, is Chile, which annexed the island more than 100 years ago.When I stood on Maunga Terevaka, one of the volcanic peaks and the island's highest point, could I really be seeing the curvature of the Earth? That's what the locals told me.Not that Easter Island is that isolated any more. There are scheduled flights from Chile most days, and more than 40,000 tourists visit each year. Visitors are mainly backpackers checking off the world's must-sees, or retirees on a do-before-you-die mission.

Few stay more than a couple of days, holing up in basic guesthouse accommodation and hiring a car or a guide to see the sights. The occasional cruise ship passes, too, shuttling passengers to shore for group tours.advertisementBut last month's opening of the first luxury accommodation will attract a different class of traveller. Santiago-based Explora, a group known for its remote, top hotels in Patagonia and the Atacama Desert, has built a sleek new property on the south coast.

View: Full Article | Source: The Telegraph